Все дороги ведут в Рим и в Рязань. Произнести подобную фразу после нашего исследования истории рязанской усадьбы Барятинских, скорее всего, позволительно. Это только на первый взгляд звучит легкомысленно, на самом деле мы поясним наше утверждение примерами из жизни знаменитых людей, людей творческих, одни из которых после России уехали жить в Италию, другие, напротив, после многолетнего пребывания в Европе выбрали службу в России.
Рязанские поместья считались крупными, если имели от 500 и более крепостных, средними – от 100 до 500 душ, мелкими – от 20 до 100. Крупных усадеб было всего 60, они принадлежали известнейшим семействам России – Воронцовы, Гагарины, Долгорукие, Нарышкины, Чернышевы, Шуваловы, Шереметевы, Юсуповы. Большинство имений в Рязанской губернии считались мелкими. К таким по типу относится усадьба Барятинских, расположенная сегодня на улице Сережина гора в Рязани.
Основное родовое имение Барятинских находилось в Марьино Курской губернии. Его построил в н. XIX века (1810 г.) русский посол Баварии – Иван Иванович Барятинский, стройка шла 10 лет. Усадьба и сейчас привлекает дворцово-парковым ансамблем, устроенным в английских традициях общей площадью 200 гектаров. Версальский ансамбль, для сравнения, составляет 900 га. Видимо, собственникам очень хотелось размаха, роскоши, подобной европейской. И у Ивана Ивановича Барятинского получилось создать территорию, с прудами, островками, мостиками, роскошными раскидистыми растениями плотного изумрудного цвета, подчеркивающими аристократическую принадлежность владельца. На одном из островов даже возвели 16-колонную княжескую купальню. Архитектурный ансамбль усадьбы дополнили Покровской церковью в византийском стиле. В Марьино был домашний театр и симфонический оркестр.

Рязанская усадьба Барятинских намного скромнее. Но для нас она имеет не менее важное значение. Прежде всего потому, что имение хранило в себе любовь к искусству, знаниям, в нем высоко ценили честь, воспитание, имели собственный сформированный вкус и, безусловно, успех у современников. Ведь неслучайно из этого имения в 1918 году в Рязанский областной государственный музей имени И.П. Пожалостина попали картины знаменитых европейских художников: “Венецианский пейзаж” итальянского пейзажиста XVIII века Франческо Гварди, картина “малого голландца” Андреа Ван Остаде “В сарае” (1639 г.). А дед владельцев усадьбы, Иван Иванович Барятинский, писал своему сыну, будущему фельдмаршалу А.И. Барятинскому в записках (журнал «Русский архив» за 1888 год): «Употребляй все возможныя физическия и нравственныя средства, чтобы просветить страну, где находятся твои владения, Этим прекрасно будешь служить своему Государю, стране и самому себе. Продолжай то, что я начал».

Усадьба Барятинских в Рязани имеет также другое название – Шереметьево-Песочня. Дело в том, что с конца XVII века она принадлежала полковнику В.П. Шереметеву (1659 – 1773), женатому первым браком на княжне А.С. Звенигородской. Далее была в собственности их дочери Е.В. Шереметевой, бывшей в первом браке за П.С. Колычевым и во втором за действующим камергером и кавалером А.И. Бутурлиным (умер в 1775 году). Затем владела поместьем М.А. Бутурлина, которая вышла замуж за тульского предводителя дворянства действительного статского советника А.А. Исленьева , далее – их сыновья, подполковник С.А. Исленьев, майор А.А. Исленьев. А затем усадьбу приобрел В.П. Титов, который был женат на графине Е.И. Хрептович, затем, после смерти В.П. Титова в 1891 году имение приобрели внучатые племянники Елены Иринеевны Хрептович (Титовой) – И.В. Барятинский и В.В. Барятинский, О.В. Барятинская, М.В. Барятинская, Л.В. Барятинская (Голицына). Все владельцы были детьми Виктора Ивановича Барятинского и Марии Аполлинарьевны Барятинской (Бутеневой), в конце жизни вся семья проживала в Риме.

Виктор Иванович Барятинский, отец последних владельцев рязанской усадьбы, был очень известен в Севастополе, являлся капитаном 1 – ого ранга, многие его знали как очень скромного и приветливого человека. Он участвовал в Крымской войне, хорошо рисовал, играл на фортепиано. Знаменитый командир брига «Эней», флаг-офицер В.А. Корнилова и П.С. Нахимова, автор мемуаров о Крымской войне, путешественник, художник и археолог-любитель. По поручению адмирала П.С. Нахимова делал зарисовку Синопского боя, по которой затем художник И.К. Айвазовский написал картину «Синопский бой». В Риме у него была своя квартира, а также вместе семья проживала часто у племянницы Антуанетты Витгенштейн в имении Киджи в Италии.
Виктор Иванович Барятинский, отец последних владельцев усадьбы
Его жена Мария Аполлинарьевна Барятинская (Бутенева) приходилась племянницей Елене Титовой (Хрептович), супруге Владимира Павловича Титова, жившего в Рязани. Именно по материнской линии рязанская усадьба перешла в руки известного дворянского рода Барятинских.
Важно отметить, что Мария Барятинская (Бутенева) родилась в Константинополе (отец нес там дипломатическую службу), была вскормлена гречанкой, Марию Аполлинарьевну родные прозвали «княгиня Кокона». Она являлась почетным членом Библиотеки-читальни имени Н.В. Гоголя в Риме, отлично рисовала. Всю жизнь провела в Риме. В 1927 получила швейцарское гражданство. Умерла в Лозанне на вилле Уши у своей золовки Леониллы Ивановны Барятинской, которую за дипломатическую деятельность, благотворительность иногда называют одной из первых эмансипированных женщин Европы.
Лионелла Ивановна Барятинская Лев Петрович Витгенштейн
Лионелла Ивановна Барятинская (1816-1918), родилась в Марьино Курской губернии. В 1834 году императрица Александра Федоровна устроила ее замужество с Львом Петровичем цу Сайн-Витгентштейн, сыном Петра Витгенштейна, героя Отечественной войны 1812 года. Лев (Людвиг) был крупным землевладельцем в России (более 3 млн.акров обрабатывали 100 000 крепостных). Когда умер его отец, фельдмаршал Петр Витгенштейн, Лев впал в немилость у Николая I за то, что Витгенштейн участвовал в декабристском восстании. Этот факт стало уже непросто скрывать. Царя смущало обширная собственность прусского гражданина на западной границе России от Литвы до Черного моря. Данные обстоятельства вынудили Льва и Леониллу покинуть Российскую империю. Семейная пара отправилась в поместье Сайн, прусский король подарил им руины замка Сайна, из которых удалость создать княжескую резиденцию, сказочный замок. Леонилла заказала новую часовню, где хранилась рука Святой Елизаветы, также создала монастырь для ухода за детьми и пожилыми людьми, семья помогала безработным, обеспечивала металлургов средством существования. Муж покупал дворцы в Париже, Риме, Берлине, чтобы использовать для поездок ко Дворам дружественных монархов. Супруги посещали известных художников, приобретали для своей коллекции произведения XIX века, чтобы украсить замок Сайн ( Орас Верне, Франц Винтерхальтер, Иоганн С. Отто).
Также у четы было имение под Литвой – это замок Верки, запечатленный в акварелях художника Василия Садовникова. Кстати, на одной из акварелей видна картина Ораса Верне, представленная в интерьере в замке в Верках. Картина написана в Париже в 1837 году, Лионелла изображена с мужем, первым ребенком и двумя детьми от первого брака Льва со Стефанией Радзивилл. Семья готова к охоте, Лионелла и ее муж на коне. По правую руку от нее сокол с распростертыми крыльями, старший сын Пьетро держит борзую на поводке. Вся семья носит одежду эпохи Возрождения. Эта картина ныне изображена на акварели В.С. Садовникова в Аричче в итальянском имении Киджи. Однако в фондах Смоленского музея- заповедника хранится похожее произведение под названием «Конный портрет дамы с несколькими фигурами», нуждающееся в реставрации. Местные искусствоведы считают, что картина была написана неизвестным художником в XIX веке. При этом с нашей стороны видится необходимым заявить, что картина повторяет сюжет портрета Лионеллы Барятинской, написанный Орасом Верне. С данного произведения также делал копию Канут Русецкий.

Knight’s Hall in Verkiai Palace, Vilnius, Lithuania
У Лионеллы было 6 детей, 2 приемных и 4 своих. Все они, как и родители, были католиками. Лионелла в Верках организовала школу для крестьянских детей. Дочь Лионеллы Антуанетта Витгенштейн вышла замуж за итальянского князя Марио Киджи Альбани делла Ровере. Он представлял выдающееся аристократическое семейство Рима. Дочь переехала на постоянное место жительство в Италию и стала большую часть времени проводить в летней резиденции в Аричче. Посвятила себя благотворительности, помогала беднякам. В 1870 году организовала религиозный ордер сестер милосердия, который управлял детским приютом. Антуанетта в Италии пыталась воплотить прогрессивные идеи своего деда по развитию сельского хозяйства. Мать переехала к дочери после смерти Льва Витгенштейна. В комнатах палаццо Киджи в Аричче есть ее вещи и портреты.
Лиенелла Барятинская с дочерью Антуанеттой Витгенштейн-Сайн
Однако Леонилла Барятинская в 70-х годах приобрела виллу в Швейцарии в Уши, на берегу Женевского озера, где принимала монархов и известных европейских особ. Она была воплощением женской красоты, воли и ума. К ней в швейцарскую виллу приехали в конце своей жизни брат фельдмаршал Александр Иванович Барятинский, золовка, мать владельцев рязанской усадьбы Барятинских – Мария Аполлинарьевна Барятинская (Бутенева).
Пока Барятинские коротали последние дни на чужбине далеко от России, дом в их рязанском имения в 1912 году сильно перестроили, с 1920 года из него сделали интернат для детей. Также на территории располагался парк с прудами, липовыми аллеями, вязами и сиренью. Был здесь и Троицкий храм середины XIX века, возведенный прежним хозяином Алексеем Александровичем Исленьевым, но церковь в 80-е годы XX века окончательно разрушили, священников Михаила Жданова и Иоанна Архангельского в 30-е годы советского периода расстреляли.

Зарядка возле дома Барятинских
В дворянской усадьбе Барятинских, как мы уже говорили, было много картин, в том числе итальянских художников. Возможно, из Италии их присылали в Рязань дочери Ольга и Мария Барятинские.
Ольга Викторовна занималась живописью. Написала, среди прочего, портрет графа Г.С. Строганова (1902; Палаццо Браски в Музее города Рима). Весной 1917 участвовала в «Выставке русских художников и любителей искусства, проживающих в Риме». Была членом Кружка поощрения молодых художников в Риме. Его организовала ее сестра – Мария Викторовна Барятинская для «оказания всесторонней помощи, как материальной, так и нравственной, работающим или учащимся в Риме художникам – русским подданным».

Можно предположить, что картину Франческо Гварди «Венецианский пейзаж» для Рязани купили сестры Барятинские. Произведение имеет гармоничную композицию, написанную с потрясающим мастерством и точностью передачи деталей. Его можно увидеть в Рязанском областном государственном художественном музее.

Ольга и Мария Барятинские похоронены в некатолической части кладбища Тестаччо в Риме.

А что стало с их рязанской усадьбой Барятинских в XX и XXI веке?
В начале войны 1941 -1945 годов в бывшей дворянской усадьбе жили летчики. В церковной сторожке организовали обучение детей. В самой церкви устраивали танцы и крутили кино от движка. Показывали фильмы «Пышка» и «Кощей Бессмертный». Когда война окончилась, храм на территории имения использовали как склад. Полностью с лица земли церковь снесли уже в конце 80-х годов…Сейчас от церкви камня не осталось. Прямо по ней и бывшему кладбищу проложили дорогу. А на месте старого кладбища еще задолго до войны устроили колхозные парники.
В настоящее время на территории усадьбы расположен Рязанский центр детско-юношеского туризма и экскурсий. До этого с 1920 года здесь располагался детский дом.

Олеся Игоревна Липина, к.п.н., директор Электронного университета Правительства Рязанской области
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